The Sushiholic

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Dream Kitchen

Watch Now: Cherry Street Kitchen finds new, tasty home downtown | Dining

Amid the relative nightmare that was the year 2020, Jen Lindsay had a dream come true.

Food: 3½ stars ¦ Service: 3½ stars ¦  Atmosphere: 3½ stars

Lindsay, the chef-owner of Cherry Street Kitchen, learned that a space in downtown Tulsa — specifically, the ground-floor space of the 111 Lofts building at the corner of Fifth Street and Boulder Avenue — was available.

“As much as I loved being on Cherry Street, it has always been something of a dream of mine to move downtown,” Lindsay said. “And this opportunity was simply too good to pass up.”

The Aloo Spicy Chile Bloody Mary and the Adult Cherry Limeade are two of the craft cocktails available at Cherry Street Kitchen.

Lindsay closed the original Cherry Street Kitchen at the end of 2020 and spent much of this year renovating the space that had previously been occupied by the Icing on the Top Bakery.

The new location gives Cherry Street Kitchen about three times the dining space — 76 seats compared to the 26 seats at the Cherry Street site. The new space also has room for a full bar, which allowed Lindsay and her staff to create a unique cocktail menu, with several of the creations making use of locally produced spirits, such as 1907 Bourbon and Gambill’s Vodka.

“Right now, we’re open to 8 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday,” Lindsay said. “We serve a limited menu from 4 to 8 p.m., which has a few appetizers, salads and sandwiches.”

As we didn’t want to limit our choices, we took advantage of a recent Saturday brunch to sample some of the morning menu items. My companion went with one of the classics, the Farmhouse Breakfast ($12), while I opted for the Boo-Yah Breakfast Bowl ($13), to which I added a side of smoked pork shoulder bacon ($4).

Cherry Street Kitchen

An over-easy egg and rashers of bacon top the Brunch Burger at Cherry Street Kitchen.

The Boo-Yah Bowl comes in a substantial vessel that contains scrambled eggs, breakfast potatoes, a patty of BurnCo. sausage, biscuit and gravy. One needs to take a bit of care when attacking this meal, as it is possible to send the components flying if one is too aggressive with knife and fork.

And that’s not a good thing, because everything in the bowl is pretty darn tasty. I tend to judge a restaurant by how they do scrambled eggs, and here they were about as close to perfect as I’ve had in a local restaurant — the right balance of firmness and tenderness, moist without being underdone.

The house-made, mile-high biscuit and sausage gravy were also top-notch. I was a bit concerned at the amount of gravy in what looked to be an oversized thimble, but it was the perfect amount to augment, rather than overwhelm, the biscuit. The sausage had a nice sweetness, while the meaty smoked pork shoulder bacon balanced smoke, salt and sugar perfectly.

Cherry Street Kitchen

Chef-owner Jen Lindsay is excited to have moved her restaurant, Cherry Street Kitchen, to its new location downtown.

The Farmhouse is two eggs (which were ordered scrambled), blistered cherry tomatoes, the pork shoulder bacon, toast, fig jam and goat cheese spread. I cadged a tomato, lightly grilled and bursting with sweetness, and a sample of the fig jam and goat’s cheese spread, which together make an excellent topping for the toast.

We also took advantage of Cherry Street Kitchen’s takeaway service for a recent lunch. Online ordering is currently not available, but the service for my call-in order was prompt and polite, and the order was ready when promised.

That order included the Roast Beef Melt ($11) with a house salad for the side, and Fred’s Fried Chicken Sandwich ($13), which we ordered with the house-made potato chips. We added one of the sausage rolls ($5), puff pastry wrapped around a segment of bratwurst and topped with everything bagel seasoning.

The melt melded together a generous portion of sliced roast beef, grilled onions and mushrooms, Swiss cheese and horseradish mayonnaise between slices of marbled rye into a tasty whole. The salad, a mix of greens, tomatoes, carrots and cucumbers, was topped in half a hard-boiled egg and a couple of enormous croutons made from the marbled rye. We added the house vinaigrette as a dressing.

Cherry Street Kitchen

The Half & Half lunch special pairs half a sandwich with a small salad — in this case, the Turkey Chipotle Melt and the Santa Fe Salad.

The Fred’s Fried Chicken Sandwich was the only disappointing item we tried. The coating on the chicken was extremely dark, but while it did not taste burned, it really didn’t taste of anything. Perhaps we caught Fred on an off-day. The chips, on the other hand, were very good.

Lindsay said one of the changes she’s made to the menu is putting items that once were daily specials, like Fred’s chicken sandwich, permanently on the main menu. She’s also added some new items, such as the Double Wide, a sandwich of pimento cheese, bacon and fried green tomatoes, to such favorites as the CSK Chicken Salad, the Avocado Toast and the Boo-Yah Burger.

Cherry Street Kitchen

Sweet and savory baked goods line the display case at Cherry Street Kitchen.

Lindsay began her career in the 1990s, when she founded Cafe Boston, which she operated on Cherry Street and later in Utica Square until 2006. She was working as a private chef when one of her clients suggested they open a restaurant, which was the original Cherry Street Kitchen, which debuted in 2017.

Lindsay’s cooking soon drew a loyal crowd, a good many of whom have sought her out at the new location.

“We’re definitely seeing a lot of familiar faces,” she said. “But we also are getting a lot more foot traffic here than we did at the old place. I was hoping we would be busy, but the response we’ve seen so far has really exceeded my expectations.”

Cherry Street Kitchen

Mediterranean Cobb Salad with Grilled Chicken is one offering at Cherry Street Kitchen.

Cherry Street Kitchen

A bartender prepares a bloody Mary at Cherry Street Kitchen.

Cherry Street Kitchen

Cherry Street Kitchen features an open kitchen.

Cherry Street Kitchen

Cookies are on display at Cherry Street Kitchen.

Cherry Street Kitchen

Cherry Street Kitchen’s new location at 111 W. Fifth St. gives the restaurant about three times the seating capacity of its original site.

Cherry Street Kitchen

Fred’s Fried Chicken Sandwich is on the menu at Cherry Street Kitchen.

Cherry Street Kitchen

The entrance to the new location of Cherry Street Kitchen is on Fifth Street.