This 12 months, I needed to do one thing new however nonetheless function a standard ingredient. I discovered inspiration within the delightfully charming new cookbook “Gâteau” by Aleksandra Crapanzano. The e-book, that includes beguiling illustrations in lieu of images, is an exploration of French dwelling cooks’ baking repertoire. In her introduction, Crapanzano notes that whereas the French bake a terrific deal, the recipes are unfussy and much easier than we’d suppose. “The French grasp the classics,” she writes, which permits them to “improvise with confidence and panache,” making seasonal riffs based mostly on what’s readily available. You gained’t discover recipes for laminated pastry within the e-book however as an alternative desserts starting from on a regular basis to special day, together with a easy yogurt cake that’s taught to all French kids in nursery faculty.

Whereas searching for Rosh Hashanah inspiration, I came across an unassuming recipe with an enthralling identify, Orange Blossom Honey Cake. Crapanzano describes the cake — made with honey, orange blossom water and orange zest, and wearing a beautiful honey-orange-blossom-water syrup — as a “mild cake, subtly candy and floral.” Given my choice for desserts with reserved, quite than aggressive, sweetness, and my instantaneous affection for desserts that includes orange blossom water, I used to be bought.

Whereas testing the recipe, I tinkered with it barely to make it much more home-cook-friendly and much more aromatic. I swapped out the advised cake flour for all-purpose, not solely as a result of extra dwelling cooks have it of their pantry but additionally as a result of I most popular a barely sturdier crumb. And I added the zest to the step the place butter and sugar are creamed collectively to launch extra citrus oils into the cake batter. My final tweak from the unique recipe was to make use of half the honey syrup, although if you happen to choose a sweeter and moister cake, by all means use all of it.

The cake was unfussy and simple to throw collectively, and was as scrumptious and refined as promised. A tasty dessert that may be precisely categorized as an “simple raise” is one thing a harried prepare dinner who’s busy making ready a vacation feast will all the time be pleased about.

Within the course of, I found that having this cake in your recipe arsenal is a bit like having a incredible little black costume in your closet: nice for impromptu gatherings, afternoon luncheons, morning accompaniment to espresso or tea (tea drinkers, an Earl Gray is right right here), and final, however not least, vacation dessert choices.

Whereas the cake is pleasant by itself, it’s even higher with a dollop of tangy crème fraîche, which Crapanzano recommends. After a wealthy and filling Rosh Hashanah meal, bites of this aromatic cake are a pleasant and symbolic approach to finish the meal as we want for a candy new 12 months for ourselves and our family members.

Orange Blossom Honey Cake

This aromatic, floral cake with a young crumb and a refined sweetness is sort of a little black costume of desserts, as acceptable for intimate gatherings as it’s for celebratory meals. It might additionally make a beautiful accompaniment to a morning cup of espresso or tea. A honey-based glaze, along with the yogurt and almond flour, helps to maintain the cake moist. Meals author Aleksandra Crapanzano writes in her cookbook “Gâteau” that such easy desserts are the norm in France, which could clarify why the French bake so typically. She recommends serving this cake with a dollop of crème fraîche.

For those who don’t have any oranges, you should utilize one other citrus, equivalent to Meyer lemons or clementines.

Storage: Retailer, lined with a clear tea towel, at room temperature for as much as 3 days.

The place to Purchase: Orange blossom water may be discovered at well-stocked supermarkets, Center Japanese markets or on-line.

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• 1 stick (4 ounces/113 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing the pan (could substitute with vegan butter, equivalent to Miyoko’s model)
• 1 1/2 cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour
• 3/4 cup (85 grams) almond flour
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon fantastic salt
• 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest (from 2 giant oranges, ideally natural; see Headnote)
• 2 giant eggs, at room temperature
• 1/2 cup (160 grams) delicate honey, ideally orange blossom or wildflower
• 1 cup (227 grams) whole-milk plain yogurt, at room temperature (could substitute with crème fraîche or plant-based plain yogurt)
• 2 teaspoons orange blossom water

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup (100 grams) delicate honey, ideally orange blossom or wildflower
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• Finely grated zest and juice of 1 giant lemon (about 1 1/2 teaspoons zest and a pair of tablespoons juice)
• 2 teaspoons orange blossom water
• Crème fraîche, for serving (optionally available)

Make the cake: Place a rack in the midst of the oven and preheat to 350 levels. Butter the perimeters and backside of a 9-inch cake pan with 2-inch sides and line the underside with a spherical of parchment.

In a medium bowl, whisk collectively the all-purpose flour, almond flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt till completely mixed. If the almond flour is clumpy, break up the clumps with the whisk.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or utilizing a big bowl and a hand mixer, beat the butter, sugar and orange zest on medium-high velocity till gentle and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs separately, beating effectively after every addition. Cease and scrape the underside and sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, and briefly beat once more to include. Scale back the mixer velocity to medium, drizzle within the honey, and blend to mix. Add the yogurt and orange blossom water and blend to mix.

Utilizing a rubber spatula, gently fold within the dry components in two to a few batches, simply till no streaks of flour stay.

Switch the batter to the ready pan and use a small offset spatula to easy the highest. Bake for about 40 minutes, or till the cake is deep golden brown on the perimeters and begins to tug away from the perimeters of the pan. Switch the cake to a wire rack and let cool within the pan for about 10 minutes earlier than unmolding onto a big plate.

Make the syrup: Whereas the cake is baking, in a small saucepan over low warmth, soften the butter. Drizzle within the honey and stir within the vanilla and zest. Take away from the warmth and stir within the citrus juice. Proper earlier than glazing, stir within the orange blossom water; it’s best to have about 3/4 cup (180 milliliters).

Glaze the cake: Whereas the cake remains to be heat, drizzle with half the glaze all around the cake (you possibly can add the remaining glaze, if you happen to like, however begin with half of it first). Let the cake cool utterly, then slice and serve with a dollop of crème fraîche, if utilizing.

Per serving (1 slice, utilizing half of the syrup for the entire cake), based mostly on 10

Energy: 305; Whole Fats: 13 g; Saturated Fats: 7 g; Ldl cholesterol: 74 mg; Sodium: 213 mg; Carbohydrates: 45 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugar: 30 g; Protein: 5 g

This evaluation is an estimate based mostly on accessible components and this preparation. It shouldn’t substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s recommendation.

Tailored from “Gâteau” by Aleksandra Crapanzano (Scribner, 2022).

Examined by Olga Massov; electronic mail inquiries to voraciously@washpost.com.

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